Indian Drops-Vogue Gioiello September 2013

It’s a question of light. Light that hits the stone in all of its substantiveness and ‘sections’ it into an infinite number of parts like in a house of mirrors. Offering it back to the eye with a sparkling twist that is charming and very feminine.

The briolette (or brillolette) cut has made a pleasant return among this season’s top trends. It is characterized by many triangular, rectangular or diamond-shaped facets with stones that come cascading down or are aligned in a parallel manner that makes for a playful kaleidoscopic effect, especially with colored stones but with diamonds as well. The reflections of the stone change depending on the light, making the most of surfaces that are only seemingly irregular. In reality, they respond perfectly to the rules of creative geometry.

Al Zain Jewellery - Ring with emerald and diamonds, High End Collection

Al Zain Jewellery – Ring with emerald and diamonds, High End Collection

The briolette cut is at its best in three-dimensional drop or oval shapes when the stone is not set. This allows the light to hit every facet from every angle. The origin of this cut seems very far away in terms of time and geography. From India, where it was common among stonecutters, the briolette cut came to Europe in the 17th Century and immediately became the aesthetic mark of the very prestigious jewelry pieces and abandoning gradually over time that connotation exotic in favor of a more cosmopolitan and less contaminated image. From this change of course comes the success of tiaras and crowns belonged to the most famous empresses and queens in history.
Today it’s making a comeback in earrings, pendants and necklaces that vibrate to the rhythm of a color palette that is never the same twice, jewels that dance on the wave of a cluster of trembling stones. Small is also good.

Al Zain Jewellery - Emerald and diamond earrings

Al Zain Jewellery – Emerald and diamond earrings

Oxygène - Earrings with Australian pearls and kyanite.

Oxygène – Earrings with Australian pearls and kyanite.

Jacob & Co. - Yellow gold earrings with pink sapphires and cabochon rubellites

Jacob & Co. – Yellow gold earrings with pink sapphires and cabochon rubellites

Maharajas’ Jewels - Picture from %22Maharajas' Jewels%22 by Katherine Prior and John Adamson, Assouline, 2000

Maharajas’ Jewels – Picture from %22Maharajas’ Jewels%22 by Katherine Prior and John Adamson, Assouline, 2000

Inbar Fine Jewellery - Yellow gold ring with beryl, peridots and diamonds

Inbar Fine Jewellery – Yellow gold ring with beryl, peridots and diamonds

Il Lingottino - Rose gold necklace with briolette-cut sapphires and diamonds.

Il Lingottino – Rose gold necklace with briolette-cut sapphires and diamonds.

Humphrey Butler - Flourite and aquamarine four-strand necklace

Humphrey Butler – Flourite and aquamarine four-strand necklace

De Grisogono - Rose gold earrings with amethysts, rubies, orange sapphires and diamonds.

De Grisogono – Rose gold earrings with amethysts, rubies, orange sapphires and diamonds.

Chopard - Earrings with kunzites, rubellites, briolette-cut iolites and amethysts, white diamonds

Chopard – Earrings with kunzites, rubellites, briolette-cut iolites and amethysts, white diamonds

Bulgari - High Jewellery sautoir with briolette-cut sapphires and diamonds.

Bulgari – High Jewellery sautoir with briolette-cut sapphires and diamonds.

Betteridge - Yellow gold earrings with briolette-cut yellow diamonds and white diamonds

Betteridge – Yellow gold earrings with briolette-cut yellow diamonds and white diamonds

Bapalal Keshavlal - Gold ring with Southsea black pearl, white and fancy yellow diamonds.

Bapalal Keshavlal – Gold ring with Southsea black pearl, white and fancy yellow diamonds.

Source Vogue.it

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